In the 1980s the British TV presenter, Monty Don, famous for his gardening programs, had a costume jewellery company. His wife Sarah was the jeweller. They sold in such places as Harrods. Due to inexperience and the Wall Street Crash of 1987, they went out of business and were penniless. Monty then managed to have a very successful career in television. Some of their pieces are marked on the back – Monty Don and are quite collectible and difficult to find.
Category: My Notes On Manufacturers
DEROME BRENNER
Derome Brenner is famous for making glasses frames but has recently been making jewellery. I cannot find out for how long they have been making jewellery. Derome Brenner is a combination of Xavier Derome and Aurellie Brenner. Xavier is interested in creating with acetate. (Which reminds me of the Steins!) They are a 100% French based producer and I believe have less than a dozen employees. The jewellery is made from multiple layers of acetate and is polished in tumblers full of woodchips. I love some of their pieces. The V & A Museum stock some of them in their shop. Some of the pieces are marked Derome Brenner. Made in France. Some just have the Logo – which is a reverse D next to a B.
CIRO PEARLS
Ciro Pearls – which was first registered in 1917 – was originally a mail order company. One cut out forms from a newspaper and sent it to Ciro. They opened their first store – on Bond Street in central London in 1920. The produced the world’s first cultured pearl in 1917. In 1970 they invented the ‘Cirolit’ a triple A classified cubic zirconia. In the 1990s Ciro had more than 150 stores worldwide. They are still a leading producer of high end imitation jewellery with a wide range of prices. They have a shop in London’s Burlington Arcade. I have always loved Ciro jewellery – particularly the faux pearl items and try to have some examples in my shop. The quality is so good. This information has been taken from Ciro Pearls ‘About Me’ on their web site – which you can find on Google.
CINER
One of my favourite firms producing costume jewellery has to be Ciner. The firm started in 1892 but did not begin making costume jewellery until the early 1930’s. The pieces are of very good quality – and often look like the real thing. The firm is still in operation. I always buy vintage Ciner if I can find it – but it is quite sought after and difficult to find at a reasonable price. Ciner is still making and their web site has an interesting section on ‘Our Story’ – see it at https://cinerny.com
NEIGER
The Neiger company was started at the beginning of the 20th century in Gablonz. Norbert Neiger ran the company and Max Neiger headed the workshop. The business was successful and expanded after WW1. Their work was of the highest quality and sold well in America and Europe. They did not make all the components. These were chosen and mounted on the base by their workers – either in the workshop or by home workers. They had many imitators. Unfortunately they did not survive WW2. Not much of their work was marked – I have never had a marked piece. They are known particularly for their Chinese style and Egyptian Revival pieces in the 1920’s – often using glass stones to imitate jade and coral. Less is known about their work in the 1930’s. I often get asked about being able to spot a Neiger piece from the pieces made by their competitors. This is not easy. The design of the individual elements can give clues. Also the backs of the pieces are often stronger – to offset the elements on the front. I do hope one day someone will have enough information to write a book! The items in my picture are generally accepted to be by Neiger.
JACOB HULL
Jacob Hull was working in Denmark – mainly in the 1970’s – producing silver and silver plated jewellery. It is very distinctive in style – large pieces sometimes with a lump of amethyst or similar, sometimes in a sunburst pattern etc. He made some pieces in silver – these would have been more expensive and I have never had one. Mostly it was in silver plate. His work was marked J. Hull and Denmark. If it was silver it was marked as such. I often see pieces that are silver plate being sold as silver – because they have a mark and look good – so do check. Also some of his pieces are marked B & D. These pieces would have been commissioned by Buch & Deichmann. A good site to look at for his work – and other silversmiths – is scandinaviansilver.co.uk – the pieces have risen in price recently. I do not buy Hull’s jewellery because I find it difficult to sell in my shop – just wrong location! The piece illustrated has the B & D mark too.
WEDGWOOD
The firm of Wedgwood have been in existence for 250 years. In 1759 Josiah Wedgwood started his career which led him to be remembered as the ‘Father of English Potters’. The jewellery is made of unglazed vitreous fine stoneware called jasper ware – the blue colour being the most famous. The classical designs were particularly associated with the neoclassical designs of John Flaxman. Most of the Wedgwood I sell is post 1970 and is stamped with a single stamp – Wedgwood Made in England. Previous to that the Wedgwood and the Made in England were separate marks. The jewellery is made in gold, silver and in gold plate and silver plate. Copies are made – so watch out – but usually stamped ‘Wedgewood’ (ie with the extra ‘e’).
MONET
Monet was founded by Michael & Joseph Chernow. The firm was launched in 1937 and evolved out of the brothers Monocraft company -which produced initials which could be bought to personalise bags etc. They also made a range of initialised jewellery items. The company aimed ‘to create our own original designs in the finest quality jewellery science knows how to make’ and at a reasonable cost. It was a family oriented company. The height of the company’s popularity was the 1960-1970’s. Monet used a triple-plating process which extended the life of the pieces. Some pieces were made in silver. The very early pieces were marked ‘Monet Jewelers’ This changed after WW11 and they were marked ‘Monet’. The company was bought by Liz Clairborne in 2000 and continues to this day. All info from the book ‘Monet The Master Jewelers’ by Alice Vega and published by Schiffer. A wonderful book!
BOURJOIS/EVENING IN PARIS
Bourjois/Evening in Paris has a fascinating history – documented on the Boujois web site. The company was started in 1863. The company made perfumes, soaps and makeup etc. (Look under “Brand History”.) The company was started in 1863 in Paris – and it had theatrical origins. In 1924 “Mon Parfum ” was created – followed by “Soir de Paris” in 1928. I love the Evening in Paris blue bakelite containers such as the Door, the Owl and the Clock – but they are hard to find complete! Also the beautiful blue glass bottles. The vintage containers are so much more interesting!
BUTLER & WILSON
Nick Butler and Simon Wilson started selling vintage jewellery in the London markets around 1968. In 1972 they opened a shop on the Fulham Road and began to copy mainly Art Deco jewellery – and the firm has never looked back! Butler and Wilson jewellery is worn by the rich and famous – and by the customer on QVC that wants something interesting to wear for a special occasion. The company is good at predicting future styles and is always developing new lines. The book “Rough Diamonds” by Vivienne Becker – Pavilion – is a good introduction to the jewellery over the first 30 years. Today the company is run by Simon Wilson and there is a shop in London – in the Fulham Road. The shop in South Molton Street has now closed. In 2010 the company celebrated its 40th anniversary! Butler and Wilson have been very successful in what they do – mainly, I think, because they understand their customers!