Author: Gillian Horsup

Czech. necklace green glass drops

CZECHOSLOVAKIAN/BOHEMIAN JEWELLERY

Posted on by Gillian Horsup
I tend to call a lot of the jewellery from the Gablonz area of Czechoslovakia – Bohemian – which is not strictly speaking correct. That’s what we have always called it. However Bohemia actually disappeared after the First World War when the two areas were united to form Czechoslovakia. The jewellery area around Gablonz was made up of both Czech and German speakers – although Gablonz was mainly German speaking. The demise of the important jewellery making area is described in Sibylle Jargstorf’s book ‘Baubles, Buttons and Beads’ (Schiffer) – due to the rise of the Reich and the fact that many of them were Jewish. I find dating this jewellery very difficult – due to the fact that it is not that well documented. Also, although jewellery continued to be made in the area in smaller quantities, it is difficult to see what is original, what has been made from old parts – and what has been copied. I cannot always be sure when trying to date pieces!
Emili Sande Dazed Magazine

DAZED & CONFUSED MAGAZINE-DECEMBER 2011-EMILI SANDE

Posted on by Gillian Horsup

Another great photograph from Rankin. This one is from the December 2011 Dazed & Confused. Emeli Sande is a solo artist and songwriter. Styled by Bay Garnett using one of my Art Deco diamante brooches. I always have a good selection of diamante jewellery at Alfies Antiques.

Assorted bakelite bangles

BAKELITE

Posted on by Gillian Horsup
Bakelite is a combination of phenolic resin with formaldehyde and was the first thermosetting plastic. It was cast – not moulded – so never has a mould mark. Customers ask me how to tell an article is bakelite. There are many things to look for. Weight – it is heavier than other plastics. Patina – it is very highly polished. Design and colour – this comes with experience! The clink it makes when knocked against another piece of bakelite. The fittings – hinges, screws, rivets and pins – should be period. Also the smell! Sometimes just rubbing the piece will produce the bakelite smell. Otherwise hot water helps. Celluloid smells like camphor, galalith smells like burnt milk and bakelite smells horrible! It is often possible to test with a car metal cleaner. Most people use Simichrome cream – which can be bought on Ebay. Autosol will also work and can be bought in a car accessories shop. When rubbed on a piece of bakelite the cream should turn yellow. (Simichrome is pink and Autosol is white). For some reason this does not always work. Beware the modern copies – in modern plastic, and the reworked bakelite pieces. This is fine if you like the piece and are told – when buying – what it is. It is not good if you pay the price for an old, difficult to find, piece of bakelite and it turns out to be something else! (With reference to The Bakelite Jewelry Book by Corinne Davidov and Ginny Redington Dawes – Abbeville Press.)
Cut Steel anchor Brooch

CUT STEEL

Posted on by Gillian Horsup

Cut Steel was produced almost entirely during the end of the 18c and the beginning of the 19c. (see Cut-Steel and Berlin Iron Jewellery – Anne Clifford – Adams and Dart). It imitated the sparkle of diamonds – which was very fashionable at this time. Sheets of metal were cut into strips which were then covered with studs fixed with rivets (you can see the rivets from the reverse side of the article). The light bounced off the faceted studs. It was used to produce a wide variety of articles – including buttons and buckles for men. In the late 19c mass production of shoddy sheets of metal that were not riveted helped cut steel to go out of fashion.

Butler & Wilson hand brooch

BUTLER & WILSON

Posted on by Gillian Horsup

Nick Butler and Simon Wilson started selling vintage jewellery in the London markets around 1968. In 1972 they opened a shop on the Fulham Road and began to copy mainly Art Deco jewellery – and the firm has never looked back! Butler and Wilson jewellery is worn by the rich and famous – and by the customer on QVC that wants something interesting to wear for a special occasion. The company is good at predicting future styles and is always developing new lines. The book “Rough Diamonds” by Vivienne Becker – Pavilion – is a good introduction to the jewellery over the first 30 years. Today the company is run by Simon Wilson and there is a shop in London – in the Fulham Road. The shop in South Molton Street has now closed. In 2010 the company celebrated its 40th anniversary! Butler and Wilson have been very successful in what they do – mainly, I think, because they understand their customers!

Miracle mauve and turquoise brooch

MIRACLE JEWELLERY

Posted on by Gillian Horsup

Miracle began making jewellery in Birmingham in 1946 and is still producing. They make Celtic, Irish and Scottish style jewellery. Their main range is reproductions of antiqued pewter or gold plated jewellery set with Czech. glass reproductions of semi precious stones. There is a smaller range of silver set jewellery (Information taken from their website). I only put items that are not in their current catalogue on the web site – and tend to like the larger items (although we sometime do have smaller examples in the shop). Miracle is one of the few British companies that marked their products (along with Atwood & Sawyer). A great shame! I do prefer the vintage pieces.

Boucher gilt tassel earrings

BOUCHER, MARCEL

Posted on by Gillian Horsup
Marcel Boucher – one of my favourite designers – was born in Paris but moved to New York in the early 1920s. He studied with Cartier. By the 1930s he was working for the Mazer Bros. In 1937 he set up his own company – Marcel Boucher and Cie. During WW11 – because of the shortage of metals – he switched production to Mexico and made jewellery in silver under the name Parisina. He died in 1965. His wife Sandra took over the company. The company became part of Davorn Industries in the early 1970s. In 1979 Davorn was sold to D’Orlan. D’Orlan continued to made the jewellery from the original moulds. In 1984 D’Orlan joined Nina Rici and continued to 2006. The jewellery is very good quality. He used diamante, enamels, animals, fruits, coloured stones, moving parts etc. I particularly like the diamante jewellery – which is quite exceptional. Pieces between 1942-49 may be marked with a Phrygian Cap. After 1955 there is a copyright symbol before ‘Boucher’. Thanks to ‘How to Buy Vintage Jewelry.com – Buying Guide to Vintage Marcel Boucher Jewelery’. To CW Collectors Weekly and to Wikipedia for this information.
Tatler Magazine Emily Maitlis Sept. 20

TATLER MAGAZINE-SEPTEMBER 2020-EMILY MAITLIS

Posted on by Gillian Horsup

Emily Maitlis is featured in the September 2020 Tatler magazine in an article entitled “Behind the Screens”. She is wearing a pair of my vintage faux pearl and diamante clip earrings. Am a fan of Emily Maitlis and was delighted to see my earrings on the cover and on page 75. Photographer Luc Braquet Stylist Sophie Pera.